A Closer Look at The Alliance Collection by Charlie Paris
A Closer Look at The Alliance Collection by Charlie Paris
In the fast-paced world of horology, where brands vie for attention in the competition to deliver value and vision to the highest bidders, there’s an emerging segment… the microbrand. These smaller, independent watchmakers are dedicated to bringing their visions to life without the support of the conglomerates that control the industry. And it’s because of their independence that they’re able to think differently, to introduce something uniquely valuable to the world of watches.
Today, we’re talking about a favorite of mine, Charlie Paris.
Their Concordia collection was the first to do it for me. A series tool watches for “everywhere, everyday and forever.” Charlie Paris offers both a quartz model, which beats four times per second for a smooth sweep, and an automatic model, which allows them to deliver the Concordia at $300 and $900 respectively. While I admired the democratic pricing structure, it was the detailing on the Concordia that really impressed me. The proportions, the case beveling, the dial finishing, the date window execution… everything seemed to have been designed and manufactured with extreme care. Frankly, I felt that some of the larger, more famous manufacturers should take note.
This was, in my view, the answer to the prayers of young collectors and veterans looking for a handsome, well made weekend watch alike. So, when I heard about their new collection, the Alliance, my interest peaked.
The Next Level
The Alliance collection is made up of two models, both of which measure 39.5mm and are offered in two colorways, white and blue. The first features the time with the date in a neat window at six. The second is their Moonphase, which has a three register configuration. You’ll find the date in a circular display at three, a subsecond at six and finally, a unique and well designed moonphase at nine.
In both models, you’ll find well textured dials, carefully finished cases and swiss movements, hand finished in France, within. The caliber that powers their time and date model features an incredible 68 hour power reserve, which gives the model its name, the 68h. It’s by La Joux Perret, a well respected movement manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a cradle of watchmaking.
Another note before we jump into why I appreciate Charlie Paris’ decision to deliver a lovely moonphase into this collection : While it’s an easy detail to brush over because so few manufacturers pay it any mind, you cannot look past the incredible doubled domed crystals atop each Alliance model. They give great dimension to the pieces, not to mention a beautiful profile appeal.
The Moonphase Matters…
Objectively speaking, it’s the details throughout the Charlie Paris catalog that sets them apart. From the grain of their brushed lugs and seamless date execution to the domed crystals of their Alliance collection, the details make Charlie Paris impressive. But it’s the moon phase that takes my heart. Not just its beautiful execution, but even the brands choice to integrate such a sophisticated complication in the first place. A “perpetual moon phase” like this, which only requires manual adjustment every 122 years and 51 days, is so uncommon to see at this price point and I firmly believe that its mechanical mystery will do wonders in introducing the fascinating world of complicated watchmaking to the approachable end of the market.
For centuries, the complication has captivated newcomers and horologists alike. With roots in ancient Egypt and China, the moonphase was brought to life by timepieces during the Renaissance. Used by astronomers, sailors and farmers to track the moon’s position in the night sky. Beyond its rich history and clear utility, it’s the natural fascination with the celestial that keeps us wanting more.
In an industry often dominated by multinational conglomerates, Charlie Paris stands out as a testament to the enduring power of independent watchmaking. The Alliance collection represents the brand’s unwavering dedication to tradition and craftsmanship, yes, but also their own vision of what an approachable watch can, and even should be.
