Audemars Piguet’s [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet released their new [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph, a reinvention of a piece in its past.

April 09, 2020
By: Logan Hannen

The manufacturer dug into its pre-Genta catalogue and plucked a chronograph, dated 1943, and reimagined it with modern proportions. Its complex case design and vintage aesthetic make it stand out in Audemars Piguet family, but will that be enough to carry it? Let’s take a look.

But First

Source: Audemars Piguet

Specs
Case Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Two-Tone Steel and Pink Gold
Water Resistance: 20 Meters
Strap: Light Brown Calf and Dark Brown Alligator
Movement: Audemars Piguet Caliber 4409 Selfwinding Chronograph

Let’s start with sizing: The [Re]master01 is considerably larger than its inspiration. It comes in at 40mm in diameter and, assuming it’s on par with other watches that feature the same movement, about 14.6 mm in thickness.

Audemars Piguet stuck with the stainless steel case, accented in rose gold, but topped the watch with a champagne dial. Another deviation is found in the Remaster’s subdials, which have been recessed, giving it a depth that its predecessor lacked.

Source: Audemars Piguet

Powering the watch is the Audemars Piguet caliber 4409, an in-house automatic chronograph movement that, it turns out, is a modified version of the movement found in the CODE 11.59.

The Damage

The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph retails for $53,100 and is limited to 500 pieces.

Source: Audemars Piguet

The Take

A little over a year ago, Audemars Piguet was a one trick pony. While their Millenary line was admired by many, only the Royal Oak really mattered to the world. Since, the brand fought for dynamism and, through its release of the 11.59 in 2019 and this Remaster, is beginning to achieve it.

The term “remaster” is smart. It’s richer, more Holy Trinity, than “Heritage” and I like it. But with this fancier term comes a burden to improve, not just pay homage; so, what exactly about this watch is better than its inspiration?

Putting my own preference for the design language of the mid-20th century aside, this watch has flaws. The dual-tone approach from the 1940’s was cleaner, the jump in diameter seen in this release was likely a bit gratuitous and certainly the thickness is a hindrance.

Patek Philippe 5070G
Source: A Collected Man

While I have not tried this piece on, and wouldn’t make a definitive judgement on its proportions before then, I wonder why Audemars Piguet didn’t opt for a more classical profile. That path, which is actively proven by the success of the Patek Philippe 5070 and 5170, would have given Audemars Piguet the opportunity to be more balanced, more traditional.

Is Audemars Piguet afraid to go all-in? Are they afraid that their clients are too young for manual chronographs? Do the designers behind this release truly feel that it is an improvement from its inspiration?

While I have my complaints, I’m sure the Remaster will be a success for the brand and a welcome addition to 500 watch collections. More importantly, the model is a good start to an exciting journey for the brand. I’m greatly looking forward to where it takes us.