Bell & Ross Amp Things Up with the BR 05

Meet the Bell & Ross BR 05, the brand’s first mainstream attempt at entering the world of integrated bracelet, steel sport watches

SEPTEMBER 10, 2019

Source: Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross, known throughout the industry for both big, imposing square watches (in their “Instrument” collection) and more refined heritage-style watches from their “Vintage” collection, have introduced a new model, one that has very clear lineage and sources of inspiration, but also goes a long way to do its own thing.

Source: Bell & Ross

Case Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel or 18k Rose Gold
Strap/Bracelet: Full, Integrated bracelet matching the case metal or Rubber Strap
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Movement: Caliber BR-Cal.321

Meet the Bell & Ross BR 05, the brand’s first mainstream attempt at entering the world of integrated bracelet, steel sport watches; well, mostly steel (there is a stunning 18k rose gold option as well). The elephant in the room is one that the brand themselves have no issues addressing – the BR 05 collection is very directly inspired by the classic timepiece designs of Gerald Genta and other 70s designers like him, especially in models like the Patek Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. It’s an aesthetic that is near and dear to all of their hearts, and while there are certainly similarities, there are also a handful of individual takes as well.

The first is the overall design, which plays on something Bell & Ross calls the “Round in a Square” philosophy. In short, the main body of the watch features a more rounded case design that is essentially dropped into a square case. It gives the overall design something of a wabi sabi aesthetic, a weird kind of harmonious imbalance that works if you’re a fan of that kind of thing, and probably will bug your OCD if you’re not.

Source: Bell & Ross

The watch is available in either 316L stainless steel or 18k rose gold, both of which are alternately brushed and polished to create a sense of visual interest. As previously mentioned, the other hallmark of the BR 05 collection is the integrated bracelet, which certainly borrows design language from the Nautilus, but with a more blocky, squared off edge befitting the Royal Oak. The way it meets the case, however, feels somewhere in its own space, as does the integration of Bell & Ross’ signature bezel screws which, though they also harken back to the Royal Oak in this sort of design, have been a fixture of B&R design in the Instrument Series since day one.

Source: Bell & Ross

Powering the BR 05 collection is the automatic caliber BR-Cal.321, a self-winding movement based on the workhorse Sellita SW-300, with a customized winding rotor. This winding rotor, seen above, very much resembles the rim of a car tire in its design, and the entirety of the structure rotates, making it a bit more interesting to look at than your standard rotor design.

There are several variations of the watch available, with different dial options ranging from black and blue to silver, and with the addition of a skeletonized dial option which is limited to 500 pieces.

The Damage
The Bell & Ross BR 05 in steel will retail for $4,400 on rubber and $4,900 on the integrated bracelet, with the skeletonized dial selling for $5,900 on the strap and $6,400 on the bracelet. In 18k rose gold, the BR 05 will retail for $21,500 on the rubber strap and $32,500 on the matching 18k rose gold bracelet.

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