Christian goes in depth with the newest watches to hit the shop! From a triple calendar chronograph and two Rolex Datejusts, to a mint Omega time-only and a Tudor Prince Oysterdate, this week is chock-full of incredible, versatile pieces.
Rolex Datejust “Buckley” Ref. 16014
Back in 2005, this watch was considered an ugly duck, underwhelming at best. But there was one man believed in the beauty, collectability and icon potential of these painted Roman dials, that man was Buckley. And now this, one of the most collectable dials in the Rolex world, is his namesake.
It’s a Rolex Datejust reference 16014 and, if you know me, you know just how passionate I am about it. From its rich yellow gold fluted bezel to creamy tritium lume and quickset date, it’s the perfect watch. A vintage Rolex Datejust is one of the few material items that you can both enjoy for the rest of your life and, when the day comes, pass down to the next generation to do the same. A watch like this is never out of place – from Irish car bombs on a NATO to boring C-suite meetings on a cordovan strap, it never fails to serve you well, impressing the tasteful.
Dialing back in, this example, it features a very crispy steel oyster case and a flawless, rare white Buckley dial – It’s everything a vintage Rolex is supposed to be: versatile, durable, rich and understated. This is one of my favorite watches and I know it’ll never disappoint.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 1603
The matte grey Datejust is as difficult to acquire as it is remarkable in the metal. In the nearly three years I’ve spent hunting for Rolexes, this is only the second time I’ve managed to land one. But when I hold it in my hands and observe the way in which it interacts with the sun, how it goes from grey to ghost, I know the work is worth it.
Backing up, it’s a Rolex Datejust reference 1603 and, if you know me, you know just how passionate I am about it. From steel engine turned bezel to creamy tritium lume, it’s the perfect watch. A vintage Rolex Datejust is one of the few material items that you can both enjoy for the rest of your life and, when the day comes, pass down to the next generation to do the same. A watch like this is never out of place – from Irish car bombs on a NATO to boring C-suite meetings on a cordovan strap, it never fails to serve you well, impressing the tasteful.
Dialing back in, this example, it features a very crispy steel oyster case, flawless matte grey dial and original Rolex jubilee bracelet. It’s everything a vintage Rolex is supposed to be: versatile, durable, rich and understated. This is one of my favorite watches and I know it’ll never disappoint.
Tudor Prince Oysterdate
Have you ever seen a dial like this? One that, depending on light intensity, transforms from slate grey to olive? Because I hadn’t before this stunning Tudor.
Let’s take a step back – the vintage Tudor market is on fire, and rightfully so. It represents so much of the value found in Rolex, but without the price tag and consumers are finally waking up to that reality. Let’s talk about this example: First, it represents a relatively early stage of a brand that has become an icon. Next, it’s a Prince Oysterdate, a beautifully refined expression of the famous Rolex waterproof steel design. A little closer, it features a mint smooth steel bezel, a hugely desirable detail because of the slick informality it gives the entire aesthetic. Frankly, any and every Prince Oysterdate is a dream watch. But, maybe call it gluttonous, but the seriously rare (and equally beautiful) grey/olive dial just hits the spot – it separates this watch from the pack and, well, it’s gorgeous.
This watch is 59 years old. Can you believe that? I hardly can. The fact that this vintage Omega has been able to retain this kind of condition for the last 59 years is outstanding to say the least.
Backing up, I find vintage Omega watches to be some of the most classically beautiful and timeless vintage watches on the market. And beyond the watches themselves, the company is just remarkable. Not only has Omega been in production since 1848 but they’ve played major roles in America, and the world, since. From the wrist of John F. Kennedy to the moon, Omega has meant something. It has because Omega has always, and will always manufacture watches to be proud of, watches to rely on. And this 14k manual wind gem is a perfect example of that.
Gigandet Triple Calendar
This is sick. This is the kind of watch that absolutely amazes me for two specific reasons: its complication and balance.
Because of its mechanical intricacies, a triple calendar function is a difficult and expensive complication to integrate. And beyond that, because it’s such a hardcore “watchgeek” addition, it often doesn’t have the mass market appeal to justify manufacturing. But Gigandet disagreed, or they agreed and followed their geeky passion anyway – and threw in a two register chronograph, too.
Not only did they commit to manufacture these triple calendar chronographs, but they executed them with brilliance. The dial, although totally filled with instrumentation, actually doesn’t feel cramped. Amazing, right?
This is, without question, one of the most impressive tool watches I have ever owned and I couldn’t be happier to be offering it here!
The Zodiac Seawolf is a cult favorite, recognized as one of the truly great tool watches of the 20th century. I mean, it’s not just a part of diving history, it predates the damn Submariner.
This Seawolf, a reissue of the 1953 classic, is an extremely well executed evolution of that heritage. It maintains all of the key design elements – dial configuration, dauphine luminous hands a bezel – while respectfully adapting it to the modern wrist. Its size, at 39mm, makes it wear more substantially but certainly not overwhelmingly, like so many modern divers.
Its steel bracelet, mint dial, crisp case and original original box and papers blew me away and I have a feeling you’re pretty darn impressed too. Enjoy it, watchgeeks!
The Rolex Daytona and the Heuer Carerra are legends, we know this. But their impact doesn’t end in the uber luxury market – their iconic aesthetic has blazed the path for racing style. Yes, Panda dials are on top of the desirable vintage world. These are the kinds of watches, if you can find prime examples, that will steadily appreciate in the coming years; even after the mild wear of baseball games, bike riding and beer shotgunning. This Chronodeco, with its beautifully cut case, crisp white dial, black subdials and blue instrumentation is just about all you could ask for – throw the thick steel case in and now you’re just spoiled.
Check them out in the vintage watch shop before they go!