Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary Collection

Anniversary releases are, more often than not, disappointing events for watch enthusiasts. But why? Maybe it’s the hype, the unrealistic expectations we set; maybe it’s the tendency for manufacturers to treat these opportunities as cheap cash grabs, delivering very empty pieces to ‘celebrate.’ Maybe it’s both – but when a brand does manage to mark a moment in their history with a thoughtful, perhaps sentimental piece or collection, it feels great. In that endeavor, Grand Seiko has become well known for their success. Starting back in 2017, when they reissued their own reference 3180, the watch that launched Grand Seiko back in 1960, to mark their official independence from Seiko in 2017, for example. More recently, they released the Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition – not only was the watch conceptually executed right down to the strap material but their launch event was a perfect demonstration of their dedication to delivering real value to their audience, the opposite of a cash grab.

With all that in mind, what did Grand Seiko cook up for their 60th anniversary celebration? Not one or two, but four new variations of some of their iconic designs, all featuring the brand’s signature blue in the dial and (in one case) the bezel.

The References

First up is the men’s reference SBGH281, a 40mm steel watch with 100 meters of water resistance and a high beat automatic movement. Its superbly finished, angular case is modeled after the iconic 44GS cases from 1967. Its dial is that signature blue (noted above), and it has accents of red with the seconds hand and text at 6 o’clock, along with a golden ‘GS’ logo at 12. Together, the brand states, ‘these colors are meant to represent a sunrise and, with it, the dawn of a new day or era for the brand.’

The SBGH281 will retail for $6,300, and will be available in February 2020.

Next up, we have the ladies reference STGK015, a significantly smaller (27.8mm in diameter, to be precise) steel watch that is inset with 56 diamonds (45 in the bezel, and then one for each hour marker). It is powered by the automatic caliber 9S27, a movement designed specifically for the women’s watches in the brand’s lineup. It features the same blue dial, without red accents this time, but executed in mother of pearl to emphasize the inherently feminine aesthetic.

The STGK015 will retail for $9,500, and will be available in February 2020.

The SBGP007 is the third in the line, and represents the first of two pieces in the collection to feature a completely new quartz caliber, the 9F85. This new caliber features something those who have used a GMT Master II or a modern Seamaster will be familiar with: an independent hour hand which can be set without stopping the seconds hand, making it perfect for traveling and jumping between time zones. What is not immediately clear is whether this is now the way the date function will be set, as it is on those aforementioned pieces. Regardless, the watch in this case features a movement that is adjusted to plus or minus five seconds per year.

Design-wise, there isn’t a lot new to report with the SBGP007 beyond the dial. Etched into its sunburst blue is “2020” in a stylized, typical Grand Seiko font, along with a five pointed star at 6 o’clock to represent the movement’s accuracy.

The SBGP007 will retail for $3,900, and will be available in March 2020.

Finally, we have the reference SBGP015, the second watch in the line with the new quartz movement. A sports watch by design, it features 200 meters of water resistance (courtesy of a screw-down crown) and 16,000 A/m magnetic resistance. The case is modeled after the SBGV245, a sport watch in the Grand Seiko lineup that is traditionally equipped on a canvas strap, making the presence of a bracelet here all the more exciting. Then, there’s the hallmark of this piece: its matching blue ceramic bezel, which adds something to the sportiness of the watch without really adding much unnecessary complexity.

The SBGP015 will retail for $3,800, and will be available in April 2020.

The Takeaway

Let’s start with what’s new – the caliber 9F85. This movement is a really subtle, yet somehow bold step forward for Grand Seiko, and it makes sense to choose an anniversary to launch it. Seiko originally released the first quartz movement back in 1969, so the technology has always held a special relationship with members of the Seiko family. Its accuracy is outstanding, as you’d expect, and its new functionality, while not wholly new to the market, is still a solid addition to their most basic, time-only watches.

Given the fact that 60 years is considered the ‘diamond’ anniversary, I was expecting to see that idea toyed with a bit more. Clearly the ladies model took that concept very seriously, but it would have been nice to see the brand do something subtle, yet elegant throughout the collection. A great example of this is Patek Philippe’s discrete setting of a single diamond in a watch’s case.

All that aside, one of the brand’s largest criticisms is that they’ve got so many varying options. I, however, think it works strongly in the brand’s favor. For all the options they’ve got, none of them feel like they lack a distinct identity, nor do they feel like they should have perhaps belonged to another brand. It’s a way to remain true to who Grand Seiko is, artistically and as a company, while still connecting with more people on a more personal level.