Meet the Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 2A

It isn’t often that a manufacturer offers a piece that is both traditional and inventive as the NH Type 2A.

April 21, 2020
By: Logan Hannen

It isn’t often that a manufacturer offers a piece that is both traditional and inventive; enter Naoya Hida & Co, a brand launched in March of 2019 – its newest model, the NH Type 2A, does just that.

But First…

Naoya Hida, the man behind the brand, has been a fixture of the Japanese watch market for over 30 years. He has worked in the domestic distribution and representation of Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, F.P. Journe and Ralph Lauren, which has certainly informed his taste, of which he has plenty and showcases regularly on his Instagram.

Source: Naoya Hida & Co

The Specs
Case Diameter: 37mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Dial: German Silver
Strap/Bracelet: Blue Calf Leather
Water Resistance: 30 Meters
Movement: Cal. 3020CS Hand-Wound movement

The traditional side of the Type 2A is apparent.

The second traditional element is its movement, the 3020CS. The function and refined wrist-presence of this mechanical caliber is more reminiscent of the beginning to mid-twentieth century watchmaking. What is especially interesting about the movement is the fact that it’s based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750, an automatic chronograph movement.

Source: Naoya Hida & Co

The Damage
The Naoya Hide & Co. NH Type 2A is available now direct from the manufacturer for 2,100,000 Yen, or approximately $19,527.

The Take

Ralph Lauren Slim Classique
Source: FHH Journal

It’s clear that Naoya Hida is a businessman designing the watches he’d love to wear himself.

In the same way his former employer, Ralph Lauren, developed a collection of original watches with vintage design in 2012, Naoya Hida launched his namesake and its two lovely models to pursue his passion for design.

(L)1940 Rare Vintage Breguet (R)Vintage Breguet
Source: (L)Matthew Bain Inc. (R)Phillips

If you look closely at their details, you’ll see how influenced Hida has been by the brands he once represented. Take the track of the subsidiary seconds on this Model 1B – while its design is its own, the link to classic Breguet style is obvious.

Yes, I admire what Mr. Hida is doing and, as someone who is passionate about design, I envy that he is bringing his own to life. However, the nearly $20,000 price tag is unwarranted.

(L)A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia in grey and deep blue
(R)Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle in white and charcoal

Sure, the Type 2A dials are painstakingly finished and their movements have been modified from their Valjoux bases to mimic the winding of vintage watches, which is a neat trick.

But what does the 2A do better than Lange’s Saxonia or Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle, even removing brand allure? These are the watches that set global expectations at the $20k mark and, as far as I can tell, they’re cased in precious metal, equipped with traditionally decorated in-house movements and deliver much more value than…

If I am missing something about Hida’s watches, if I’m grossly underestimating their value, I surely can’t be the only one. So why hasn’t Naoya Hida put resources behind communicating the Type 2A’s value, leaving no room for misunderstanding? Kikushi Nakagawa, another Japanese microbrand with a vintage aesthetic, justifies its comparable price tags by explaining its manufacturing process, its movements, introductions to its watchmakers; tactics all brands should employ but particularly in the micro space.

While their pricing and marketing strategy leaves much to be desired, there’s plenty to love about their watches. Instead of captaining his own brand, I’d like to see Naoya Hida pioneer the design of a model or collection for a leading manufacturer. His thoughtfulness and talent is much needed in the watch world, even to the brands he once represented.