Meet the The Slim d’Hermès Limited Editions For HODINKEE

Article By: Logan Hannen



HODINKEE and Hermès have teamed up to release two new versions of the latter’s iconic Slim d’Hermès timepieces.

Despite often being excluded from most mainstream horological conversation, La Montre Hermès, the brand’s timepiece-focused subsidiary, actually has a history within the industry extending back around forty years, having worked with brands such as JLC and Rolex as a retailer early on. Hermès is also well-known for their luxury watch straps, and have collaborated on a custom edition of the Apple Watch. However, it is the brand’s newest collaboration with HODINKEE that is today’s subject.

The Slim d’Hermès line launched back in 2015, and was a commercial success for the brand. In its original execution, the movement, an in-house 2.5mm thick caliber H1950, features a micro-rotor, and overall contributes to the piece’s 9mm thick case. From this foundation, the new Slim d’Hermès HODINKEE limited editions came to be.

The Limited Editions

The Slim d’Hermès Limited Editions for HODINKEE (Time-Only on the left, GMT on the right)

Normally, here, you hear me discuss the specs of the watch, but ultimately, they’re unchanged from the model line proper as it has existed since 2015. What has changed is essentially two fold. The first, and most visually obvious, is the dial, which has gone a shade of rich, midnight blue that none of the other Slim d’Hermès dials have done before. The sub-seconds counter on the time-only model is done in a frosted silver finish, while the same finish has been applied to the second time zone dial on the GMT. The less obvious change comes in the form of the crystal, which has been smoked around its perimeter, giving the dial a subtle vignette aesthetic missing from the standard model. Beyond these changes, everything else remains the same around and inside the 39mm stainless steel case, down to the movement.

The Original Slim d’Hermès from 2015

The Damage
Time-only = $7,650
GMT = $14,700

Logan’s Take
This is a beautiful watch. I love everything about it, from it’s blue dial to it’s funky numerals that Hermès does so well, and for once I don’t even mind their lugs, typically a sticking point for me for reasons I’m still not sure of. But the thing is…I just don’t care. This could have been the watch I was most interested in this year, that it could have been incredibly special, and yet it just isn’t. For the third or fourth month in a row we’ve gotten yet another HODINKEE limited edition (see: the limited edition Speedmaster, Sistem51, and Gronefeld releases that followed, back to back, over the last few months, not even counting the Autodromo Driving Gloves somewhere in the middle). The end result, to me, is something I’d call “HODINKEE Fatigue,” a condition in which there is such an onslaught of new “special” content being introduced that is intended to impress, that they ultimately manage to fail after a certain point. Each one of them would be equally interesting in their own right, but nobody has time to process them and really get to know them before the next one is being shoved in our faces, all the while failing to actually do anything particularly revolutionary. We get a change of dial color or design, or a reissue of an incredibly well-loved vintage model, but at no point does HODINKEE actually try to use their position in the industry to take a limited edition and transcend the appearance of a cash grab. We all know they’re incredibly passionate over there, that they love what they do, but if, going into 2019, HODINKEE committed to one or two thoughtful, important releases that really tried to do something different, then maybe I could move beyond the point where all I can say is “wake me when it’s Rolex.”