(Re)Introducing: The Omega Caliber 321 In Stainless Steel, “Ed White” Edition

We all knew it was coming, it was just a matter of when and how it would. Now, we have our answer. Meet the Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” Edition, powered by the brands famed 321 caliber.

While the manufacture did resume production of the caliber for their $56,000 limited edition Platinum Speedmasters back in July, this new release houses the first full production 321 in over 50 years. Remember the significance here – this manual wind chronograph movement powered the first Speedmasters in 1957 and, 12 years later, accompanied Americans to the moon. It’s one of the few movements ever manufactured to be considered an icon.

It appears, based on what we know, to be much like the “First Omega in Space” special edition, in that it’s viewed as separate from the main Speedmaster Professional range, but is still part of the main lineup. Before we get into too much more of what this means, let’s go through what else we know about the watch.

Source: Omega

SPECS
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 39.7mm
Crystal: Anti-Reflective Coated Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 Meters
Strap: Stainless Steel Flat-Link Bracelet
Movement: Omega Caliber 321 Manual Winding
Price: $14,100

Based on of Omega’s ref. 105.003, which earned its nickname “Ed White” when it was worn by the astronaut himself, this new production model stays true to its inspiration. But from afar and to the untrained eye, the new Ed White looks much like any other Speedmaster Professional. Though, if you have an eye for detail, certain differences become apparent pretty quickly. The lugs, for example, are straight, unlike the more famous “twisted” Speedmaster lugs. The bracelet, as well, is the more vintage-inspired “Flat Link” bracelet seen reintroduced on the Trilogy collection in 2017. And of course there’s the size, coming in at 39.7mm instead of the Professional’s 42mm.

Rather than updating the movement, taking its architecture and evolving it for the modern era, Omega stuck to their guns and began its production again exactly as it was done in the 50’s and 60s. It’s impressively faithful not only to the original movement, but to the watches that housed it, and this new Speedmaster is no exception.

Source: Omega

THE TAKE
This release is likely to go down as one of the brand’s most universally loved in a long time. It reunites a legendary movement with a case metal and styling that is nostalgic to Speedmaster enthusiasts. However, there are a few things that need to be considered here.

First and foremost, at $14,100, this is one expensive steel Speedmaster. The standard Speedy Pro retails at $6,350, is in abundant supply and usually sold at a discount. By contrast, this Ed White edition, which is only materially differentiated by using an older movement, ceramic bezel as opposed to aluminum and different case and dial design, is over double the price. This begs the question: what is Omega doing? Well, the Ed White seems to be Omega’s Daytona. While the Speedmaster and Daytona have always been, as famous chronographs from two of the worlds favorite brands, broad stroke counterparts, Omega is attempting to go upstream in price and replicate Rolexes unbelievable demand and success. In other words, it’s seems like Omega is trying the “hype beast” approach.

Here’s why I think it’ll be impossible for Omega to replicate the frenzy around the Daytona: Rolex only makes two steel Daytonas – one in a black and one in a white. They’re both expensive and in high demand, typically trading between 8-10k over their retail price. So if you have one, you’re a part of (I hate to say it) an exclusive club. The Speedmaster family, on the other hand, is like an extended Italian family; new relatives keep cropping up, sometimes barely recognizable as being related to you in the first place. Not only that, but they’re prices are scattered, making it hard for most to understand the value of the Speedmaster as a model. In my experience, the mass market consumer finds that black dial “Speedies” in general are indistinguishable. And since the Professional, the entry level “no frills” model, is by far the most popular, the perceived value of the Speedmaster family is between $5-6K. While to watch aficionados, that comparably conservative range is a blessing, it’s approachability just might be a curse on the road to becoming the next Daytona. For those reasons, it’s possible (if not likely) that this one will get lost in shuffle.

So is this release a good move for the brand? Only time will tell, since the pieces have yet to officially be released at ADs, but there will no doubt be significant pressure on Omega to deliver because now, the world is “watching”. Bad pun.