Rolex Launches a Selection of Updated Oysters for 2020

Spotlight on the 2020 new releases from Rolex.

September 02, 2020
By: Logan Hannen

When Rolex announced that they would be releasing their new watches for 2020 on September 1st, it sent the watch world into a tizzy of speculation and debate about just what the Crown would be putting out. Would it be a new Milgauss? A Coke bezel GMT Master II? Something in steel on the Oysterflex Bracelet (finally)? Or would it be some kind of update to the Submariner? This last option was one of the most popular (the Submariner hasn’t received any major updates since 2012), and it turns out those in this camp were right, they simply didn’t realize that there would be more to come with it.

Not only was a whole new Submariner line on the list, but also a total revamp of the Oyster Perpetual family, an update to the Sky-Dweller, and a few new versions of the 31mm Datejust. This quadruple offering technically came a night early, in the late hours of August 31st, but for rabid Rolex fanatics, the announcements couldn’t have come a moment too soon.

Check out our video on the New Releases

The New for 2020 Rolex Submariner 41mm

Source: Rolex

The Specs
Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Material: 904L Stainless Steel/904L Steel and Gold/18k Yellow Gold/18k White Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet (Material Matched with the Case)
Water Resistance: 300 Meters
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3230 (No Date)/3235 (Date)
Price: $8,100 (No Date), $9,150 (Date in Black), $9,200 (New “Kermit”), $14,300 (Steel and Gold), $36,950 (Full Yellow Gold), $39,650 (White Gold)

The new, updated Submariners are no doubt the stars of the show. They are a shining example of what Rolex does best — small, incremental changes to existing models that feel more like evolutions than revolutions. However, with the new for 2020 Submariners, Rolex has made a handful of significant changes. First and foremost is the case diameter, up to 41mm from the 40mm it has been for most of the model’s lifespan thus far. In so doing, however, Rolex has slimmed down the lugs of the Supercase, bringing the overall profile back down to something more akin to the pre-ceramic models of old. In practice, the 1mm increase in size, because of this slimming down of the lugs, is hardly noticeable, but it does produce a totally different impression on the wrist than the most recent Submariners had. This is aided by the widening of the Oyster Bracelet, creating a bit less of a dramatic taper than was previously seen.

Also updated has been the movement, now featuring the 3230 and 3235 Calibers in the No Date and Date variants, respectively. These updated movements feature Rolex’s Paraflex shock absorption system in the balance, as well as an increased power reserve of 70 hours. And of course, the main takeaway here is the color variants, with the standard black dial, black bezel remaining, but with some new additions. The Hulk (green on green) Submariner has been replaced by a modern interpretation of their 50th anniversary Kermit model, which featured a green bezel and black dial. That bezel on this new version is Cerachrom, rather than the aluminum on the original. There are also the old standby two tone models with black and blue dials, along with solid 18k yellow gold offerings, alongside a new white gold Submariner with a blue bezel insert and black dial.

The New for 2020 Rolex Sky-Dweller

Source: Rolex

The Specs
Case Diameter: 42mm
Case Material: 18k Rose or Yellow Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Strap/Bracelet: Oysterflex Bracelet
Water Resistance: 100 Meters
Movement: Rolex Caliber 9001
Price: $40,000 (Yellow Gold), $41,500 (Rose Gold)

When it comes to the Sky-Dweller, there isn’t nearly as much to report as with the Submariners. The watch itself remains fundamentally unchanged, but now can be had (in three variants — two rose gold with brown and silver dials, and one yellow gold with a sunburst black dial) on the Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet. The Oysterflex is made from a material the brand calls Elastomer, a type of rubber, featuring a thin titanium and nickel alloy blade running down the interior center for stability and shape maintenance. It also features the Glidelock clasp system in a metal that matches the case. This option is a popular one on watches such as the Daytona and Yachtmaster, though it does feel slightly out of place on the Sky-Dweller line, and Rolex seems committed to keeping the Oysterflex a precious metal watch exclusive for reasons that are not entirely clear.

The New for 2020 Datejust 31

Source: Rolex

The Specs
Case Diameter: 31mm
Case Material: 904L Steel (w/ White Gold Fluted or Diamond Set Bezel)
Crystal: Sapphire
Strap/Bracelet: 904L Steel Oyster or Jubilee Bracelet
Water Resistance: 100 Meters
Movement: Rolex Caliber 2236
Price: $7,800 (on Oyster) $8,050 (on Jubilee), $16,050 (Diamond Bezel)

With the new Datejust 31, we see three very distinct variants on offer. All three come in the same 31mm Oyster case in 904L steel with 18k white gold bezels. The blingiest offering features diamonds inset in the bezel, along with what Rolex is calling an Aubergine dial (aka eggplant purple). This version comes on a Jubilee bracelet, as does the dial variant in “Mint” green (that, frankly, more resembles forest green, but that’s besides the point), which features a standard fluted bezel. The final option is a white dial with applied Roman numerals on an Oyster bracelet. There really isn’t much to be said about them beyond the fact that they add some nice variation to the Datejust 31 line, a line primarily geared towards women, with hopefully an option to suit every taste.

The New for 2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Line

Source: Gear Patrol

The Specs
Case Diameter: 41mm, 36mm, and 31mm
Case Material: 904L Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Strap/Bracelet: 904L Steel Oyster Bracelet
Water Resistance: 100 Meters
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3230 (41 and 36mm) or 2232 (31mm)
Price: $5,200 (31mm), $5,600 (36mm), $5,900 (41mm)

The real winners of the new 2020 releases have got to be the entirely revamped Oyster Perpetual line. While this revamp did mean the loss of some fan favorites (namely, the Oyster Perpetual 39 line completely), it introduced something that Rolex hasn’t quite seen since the 70s: color. First, the more standard options — in the 41mm size, we now have a sublime silver dial with yellow gold indices that feels just like something from the late 60s that’s faded from its original silver into something a bit grayer. There is also a black sunburst option in this size as well, alongside some of the variety of colors mostly focused on the 36mm range. These colors include a coral red, a vibrant pink, a siren yellow (not unlike that seen on the FP Journe Octa Sport), and two different shades of blue (one a kind of baby blue, the other a darker sunburst). These colors also translate over to the Oyster Perpetual 31 range as well.

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual w/ Candy Pink dial (left), Rolex Day-Date w/ Pink Stella Dial (right)
Source: Rolex (left), Phillips (right)

The dial colors are really a callback, to my mind, to the Stella dials of the 70s, seen most typically on gold Day-Dates, with their unique funky colors creating a nice clash with the stark, more sterile look of the steel. It’s a brilliant callback that doesn’t feel like an easy reissue opportunity (which Rolex doesn’t really go for anyway) and the result is something truly special in their existing line. The dials also feature double indices at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, another nice callback to vintage Day-Date models (among others).