TAG Heuer’s Modified Aquaracer Formula: Aquaracer 43mm Tortoiseshell Effect Caliber 5 Automatic

TAG Heuer unveiled two new versions of their classic Aquaracer line.

August 12, 2020
By: Logan Hannen

TAG Heuer unveiled two new versions of their classic Aquaracer line in the form of the Aquaracer 43mm Tortoiseshell Effect Caliber 5 Automatic.

Source: TAG Heuer

The Specs
Case Diameter: 43mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water Resistance: 300 Meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black Rubber with Alligator Pattern on the Front
Movement: TAG Heuer Caliber 5 Automatic Movement

Both of the new tortoise shell models come in the same 43mm stainless steel Aquaracer case shape. Hanging off the 9 o’clock side of the case is a small winged section (reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus), which creates symmetry with the crown guards on the 3 o’clock side. It gives the Aquaracer case a bit of its own flair and identity that many Oyster-influenced divers simply lack.

This new variation comes in a blue and burgundy tortoiseshell bezel, something, to my mind, completely new in the watch world, a wholly different bezel material and design than has been seen thus far. It gives them some much needed character, and is different enough from the standard ceramic seen on modern Aquaracers that it does, indeed, make them feel special. The bezels, instead, are made from a resin that takes on the tortoiseshell effect beautifully.

Source: HODINKEE

The dial on the blue bezel variation is a similarly toned sunburst blue that is brushed into the horizontal line pattern seen on many modern Aquaracer dials. The burgundy version is given a black bezel with matching burgundy text for the words “Caliber 5” (executed in a more vivid blue on the blue version). There is a date window at 3 o’clock in white on both versions as well.

Powering the watches is TAG’s Caliber 5, an automatic movement with 25 jewels, and beats away at 28,800 bph. It features a 38 hour power reserve, certainly nothing to write home about in the world of modern power reserves, but functional nonetheless.

Source: Horobox (Left), Ace Jewelers (Right)

Through the transparent caseback we can see the beautiful (and incredibly difficult to photograph) Sea-Gull ST19 chronograph movement. A mechanical chronograph movement is always a sight to behold, and this one, made in China by Sea-Gull, is absolutely mesmerizing in the metal. It’s a column wheel flyback chronograph (“flyback” meaning that, if you hit the reset pusher without first stopping it, it will snap back to 0 and start counting again immediately), featuring a roughly 42 hour power reserve. Being manual winding, there’s no automatic winding rotor, so you are directly responsible for giving the watch it’s life.

The Damage
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 43mm Tortoiseshell Effect Caliber 5 Automatic retails for $2,600..

The Take
For years, the Aquaracer has been the budget “luxury” diver. Not popular for its iconic design, unique qualities or purpose, but for its connection to Tag Heuer, a brand with pull, and price tag a fraction of Rolexes.

That strategy is, and has been since its implementation, beneath the once great manufacturer. So to see Tag Heuer put effort into the model, to introduce something truly new, is beautiful. The Aquaracer can, and one day might be, loved on its merit, not its badge. The journey to distinctiveness and originality in the collection is not over, but I’m hungry for what’s coming.